itinerance and meditation

Tuesday, August 10, 2021

idleness and clouds

Long, uninterrupted blocks of idle time seem to be the most conducive to writing. While it wasn't great for organizing or researching longer works (I usually lacked the materials and physical space necessary for extensive note-taking, let alone access to encyclopedias of any kind),  I recall that I wrote frequently during my backpacking travels. I mostly travelled alone, kept a book and notebook with me at all times, and had many long periods of downtime in between activities, in which there was nothing to do but read, write, or simply think, even if I had wanted to do something else. I was not only allowed, but forced to be alone with my thoughts. While I can't claim that it was always pleasant, it really does feel like a lost luxury these days. Calls to adventure aside, I begin to think that that roving, lonely lifestyle was the most natural state of existence for someone like me.


While flying is an almost universally abysmal experience - bureaucratic, callous, commercial, an A-Z of pejoratives if you like - there is still something magical about the clouds themselves, perhaps in the act of looking down on them, though that sounds too hostile or paternalistic. I can negate that, though, for the best part is being among them, the sense of climbing a mountain range in the sky, filled with the dwellings of some colorless people. Rather, they are a canvas on which to paint any and all possible colors. Their steeples and minarets are all possible architectures from all possible cultures at once. Their children pass up and down the steps of cathedral cities as templates for a sort of prismatic future, where each one of them can become all things that they have the slightest inclination to be, as time stretches out to infinity, and layers itself one iteration atop another. 


Then the wind blows, and it is all obliterated.


While I don't remember when it happened, I feel like there was one moment in my life when the clouds were the most beautiful, and every sky I have seen since then contains some amount of that moment, some tiny, reflected grain of an image imprinted forever on my spirit. This living, but static image, so dimly recalled as to be impossible to reproduce, may be the closest thing in this universe to eternity.






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Sunday, September 8, 2019

to see with eyes unclouded

My neighborhood in America

A neighborhood in Syria that we bombed



    "I have quoted John Winthrop's words more than once on the campaign trail this year—for I believe that Americans in 1980 are every bit as committed to that vision of a shining "city on a hill," as were those long ago settlers ...
    "These visitors to that city on the Potomac do not come as white or black, red or yellow; they are not Jews or Christians; conservatives or liberals; or Democrats or Republicans. They are Americans awed by what has gone before, proud of what for them is still… a shining city on a hill." --- Ronald Reagan

"A city that is set on a hill cannot be hidden." --- Jesus, possibly

    In the second Urusei Yatsura movie, Ataru and the gang find themselves trapped in a nightmare version of their town of Tomobiki, reliving the same day over and over, unable to escape the city. Toward the end, they all pile onto the private harrier jet of their obscenely wealthy friend, Mendou. They fly up and away from Tomobiki, only to discover that the whole town rests on the back of a giant sea turtle floating through space.
    As I've spent more of my life away from home, away from the Western world, and learned from those much more well-informed than I, I've come to see my own town in the same way. Except that Bloomington (or at least the version of my experience) is more a pleasant dream than a nightmare, and instead of a giant turtle, it sits on the backs of the rest of humanity. It's not the fault of the town, or the people who live in the town. Bloomington is a nice place full of mostly nice, even socially conscious, people. I live in a quiet, pleasant, affluent neighborhood. I bike down the road to see rows of identically pleasing houses and apartments. Everything is quiet. Bombs never fall from the sky. No one is killed by a drone strike. There are no political assassinations that I'm aware of. Yet I cannot help but wonder who had to be killed or exploited to make it this way.
    American politicians love to talk about American exceptionalism, that we are a 'city on a hill', yet I can't help but think that our city only reached this height by being built on top of the corpses of countless generations of slaves, displaced natives, sweatshop workers, murdered freedom fighters, and marginalized peoples around the world. I can't help but think that the 'globalization' that now rules the flow of wealth is still just imperialism rebranded.
    And who is to blame for it? I cannot blame my family and friends. They are hard-working, kind people in an imperfect world. I can blame the system, 'The Machine', but this machine is made up of my family and friends, and their families and friends. Where does the abstraction stop and personal responsibility begin?
    I can blame our government, but that's just a different word for the same thing. I can throw vitriol at our president and his cronies all I want, but the truth is that he is just the latest in a long line of figureheads atop of a vast structure of exploitation that has existed longer than the country itself, an apparatus that continues to run every time I buy a book about humanism on Amazon, or an organic coffee at our local store; or every time I pay my taxes while keeping silent about the latest police shootings, or our massive prison population, or the extrajudicial murder of who knows how many innocents abroad. Every time I take a look at Facebook politics, or see a Republican raging at Democrats, or a Democrat raging at Republicans, all I can think about is Erich Fromm's ever-prescient analysis of modern society. A society so beyond the action or comprehension of most individuals that a person gives up their will, even their identity, to a collective. To, in a sense, regain their self-worth by abdicating responsibility. In this morass of humanity, how could I single out anyone?
    No, the only one I can blame without equivocation is myself. When I sit down for a nice meal, I think of those who can't and blame myself. When I sleep in my climate-controlled bedroom, I think of the lean-tos in Rangoon housing whole families and blame myself. When I choose to teach rich kids because poor kids can't pay me enough, I blame myself. And when I can only respond to these thoughts with resentment instead of action, either constructive or destructive, I blame myself. And above all, I blame myself because while many people are born into their only lifestyle, I have had the opportunity to choose something else if I wish to. Yet I still live like this.
    The old stereotype is to finish your meal because somewhere else people are starving. And gratitude is a nice sentiment, I suppose. But is it really what I should be feeling? Is it true that I'm just fortunate and someone else isn't, so I should enjoy what they can't? Or is it more true that I have, in fact, taken the food they were going to eat, though I have too much already?

    The words that Reagan was referring to in that quote were from a lecture Winthrop gave called "A Model of Christian Charity". An ironic place from which to glorify ourselves. The city is on a hill not as a measure of superiority, but because everyone is watching them. And when I look at America from the outside, I wonder what the world sees. Because I see a nation that hoards wealth above all else in a world of poverty and strife, a nation that is willing to lash out to protect itself or take what it wants; I see a dragon in its mountain cavern, grown fat atop its treasure while the world outside burns.
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Monday, October 9, 2017

so long yangon


crumbling buildings and sewers
green things choke the city from all directions
every rooftop is full of spiders
every sewer with rats
every alley with stray dogs

the wealthy grow paler and fatter by the minute (their husks permeated with the stench of air-conditioned hypermalls and the skin-care products within) while the poor remain skeletal and dark, the ridges of their bowed spines visible out the top of grimy tank tops as they stand like scarecrows around the trashfire behind the abandoned truck frame

white cabs pack the streets between the public buses (secondhand imports from every country that makes buses) all vying for space, the drivers playing lane chicken while hopped up on stimulants

soon i'll be gone
but the city will still be standing here, if only because they will keep building it, even as the monsoon rains and the dust and the jungle beat it down

---

from the plane window at night
i can see the twinkling of the lights as the trees pass over them
rice paddies give way to ocean, and eventually to corn fields

at home, it's Fall
i grow a beard and wear flannel
the highways are massive, the trucks the size of battleships
billboards and strip malls fester on the endless rolling hills
the countryside is eerily silent
no chanting or EDM blasting from speakers down the flooded streets
no ants or spiders or beetles or mosquitos or mushrooms growing in my bathroom
no dogs howling
no cat fights or screaming children
no bells twinkling from the pagoda top

but weirdest of all, it's not hot

so long Yangon
i'm back in the land of parking lots
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Tuesday, April 19, 2016

moussaka (watching the world go by)

Around the corner from my friend's apartment here in New York is a diner that serves moussaka (among many other things). It's good, but not the best I've had, and that got me thinking of the best I've had, and the memory connected with it, half the reason I like ordering it here.

Moussaka is a Greek dish made from ground lamb, eggplant, tomatoes, and bechamel, kind of like a lasagna without pasta or tomato sauce.

I think it was less than a year ago (feels longer) that I first tried it. It was either on the coast of Turkey, or at a small resort on the Greek isle of Thera – where the Minoans used to live before a volcano wiped them all out. I can't remember now. It was better, of course, but still not the best.

That came a week or so later at a restaurant in Athens. My plane had just landed there from Thera early that morning. The previous night had been filled with beach sunsets and wine, so I was more than a little bleary-eyed after the flight. I took the train into town and came up out of the station into Monastiraki square, pigeons and street performers scattered across the cobblestones. The Acropolis was visible on its plateau through the gaps in the buildings.

I arrived at the hostel to find that they wouldn't be ready for me until sometime that afternoon. So I headed back to the square and did what I usually do when I have no place to go. Find a restaurant or cafe to hole up for a while, probably while reading or scribbling away in my journal. This time it was a nice place down the street that looked out onto the square, not far from the Ancient Agora. I asked for a table inside to get away from the crowds. It was well lit, cavernous, and completely empty that time of morning. I was wearing two sweatshirts because they wouldn't fit in my bags, which were arranged around my chair in a mound. My hair stuck up and out in all directions. I couldn't remember when I had last showered or had a decent night's sleep. I ordered moussaka and coffee and sat there for several hours, reading, taking advantage of the wi-fi; the wait staff standing around their giant, empty dining room with nothing to do but check on me occasionally. Outside, the city paid me no mind, but simply went its own way. One man shouted gibberish at a monument that had probably stood hundreds or thousands of years before he was born, while the terrace diners ignored him with ease. I didn't know a single person in the city, and barely in the country for that matter. No connections, nowhere to go really, and no one to care if I didn't go anywhere. This time and place wasn't my life, it was just the world. I could've been a phantom, or an unseen camera spying a time lapse of history.

Not sure where I was going with this. Other than to demonstrate what I think about when I eat moussaka.
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Monday, February 29, 2016

second day in the village

 first part here

    I won't pretend to understand the relationship between the authorities and the monks in Myanmar. Nevertheless, it was prudent for us to pay a visit to the monastery. Down a path behind the house was a small store from which we bought gifts to take with us. Snacks, mostly. The monk himself was much like other monks in appearance, bald, tan, draped in crimson robes, though thinner and lankier than many. He sat with his back to the Buddha statues and faced toward us as we knelt and placed the gifts on the floor. The apprentices were gathered to one side, a little crop of dark scalps, miniature versions of the same person. They sat dead silent and stared curiously for a bit before reverting to an idle sort of boredom. At the monk's direction, one of them brought a plate of food for us. Aww zar thee, a fruit which could be mistaken for pineapple from a distance, but segmented inside, and very sweet with a grainy texture.
    The only light drew in from the doorways set in each wall. We sat while the monk talked at length about the situation in the village. Money that had been donated for the school was instead languishing in the chairman's pockets, among many other problems. Though I was wholly ignorant of the law, it seemed that foreigners were not to stay anywhere but hotels in the country. A law which seemed to have no connection to reality. Or perhaps it was only in certain areas. All I understood was that there was some issue with the police. But of course, they didn't like to mess with the monks. It was suggested that perhaps I could just "stay" at the monastery. I sat and listened even though I couldn't understand. Thanks to my travels in the past few years, I'd grown used to being a passive member of most conversations.

    The next day, we went to the farm. Down the dirt road, which was finally drying out after the rain, cows lingering along the side. They're used as pack animals and to work the land, but not livestock. On the way, we stop at more houses for lahpet and tea. One old couple lives in a two-story house with plaster walls and a real roof. They both look carved from wood, wrinkles and all. They are hardened instead of saggy, experience manifesting physically in a way that commands respect; for them specifically and perhaps for all who live their lives in the sun and wind, in the world as it is. Or maybe a life of watching that world on TV, in movies about the beyond, documentaries, old Walker Evans photos of the Dust Bowl in the Depression, has conditioned me to romanticize. 
    Fields of rice, chilis, chick peas, and beans. The farm is segmented and divided between different members of the family, though most or all worked by her brother-in-law and his hires. The three of us cut along a creek bed and up to the fields as he clears a path with his machete. The air is much more clear here than down around Yangon, the sky almost reminiscent of home, clouds like veins of light in a blue sky near sunset. Wild stretches of growth and palms mark the borders between fields. Along the far edge of one, several strangers stand like statues, watching us pass. "They come to steal the cows' food when we're not around," my friend explains.
    In one small patch, the crops are not growing. The brother-in-law points to it. "My friend sends American seeds, they don't grow." He laughs. I feel a sudden urge to defend my country. I mean, of course they wouldn't grow in soil on the opposite side of the planet. Right? Back home, I do nothing but complain about my country. But anytime a foreigner does the same, I switch sides.
    Back by the house, he's harvesting corn in a small field with a sickle. He passes it to me, and I try my city slicker hands at it, while he laughs.

    During my stay, it's been repeatedly suggested that I should get a haircut. There is one barber in town. My last haircut was a year ago, so I finally relent. We track her down and she borrows a pair of scissors from a friend. I take my shirt off and sit on a tree stump in an open spot of the village. My skin is rrreeeeaally pale. Anyone nearby gathers around to watch in a big circle while she cuts my hair.
    Bathing is usually outdoors with a spigot, a plastic bowl, and a longyi. A longyi is just a big cloth tube you wrap around yourself, part of the traditional dress for both men and women. Fill a metal tub a bit with water from the spigot. Less of a haven for mosquitos than the big open cisterns they use at my school. Soap up and throw some water on yourself with the bowl. I'm not good at it at all. My friend doesn't believe that I actually bathed. Maybe that's why, on the second day, her brother-in-law is there throwing water on me and laughing.
    Ealier that day, I'd asked my friend if I could buy whiskey for her brother-in-law. Her sister quickly chimed in: "No whiskey." For that last night, we had settled on beer and palm wine with dinner. A sort of going away, maybe a chance to repay a little hospitality while getting further in debt at the same time.
    I stepped back into the house, dressed, and went out to the front porch, where a crowd had gathered, having a somber discussion with two police officers. One a jovial fellow with a wide face and protruding stomach, an old friend of the family, apparently. Next to many of the villagers, he looks like a dirigible floating through a flock of sparrows. The other a thin, twitchy man with red teeth that I've never seen before. He exhudes an air of anxious disdain for those around him, which makes me uncomfortable. They ask to see my passport again, and examine every page of it for what seems like hours, while having a serious talk with the locals. I can't understand any of what's going on, of course, except for the occasional question put to me. I'm conscious of their holstered pistols, especially the twitchy one. Little hints of the situation reach me, but I still don't really understand. I'm waiting for them to ask me about my expired visa. They eventually do, and I tell them what I know while my friend translates. I suggest we should call my principal, but of course there is no phone service except for the house's landline, which is hooked up while the generator is running. Nobody gets called, though. The officers don't seem to want anyone else involved. The state of my visa is irrelevant to them, anyway. All they want is a bribe from the villagers or they kick me out. I'm not aware of any of this until afterwards, of course.
    The jovial one maintains his good humor throughout. He tells me he went to school with their uncle. "Coco, you know? Drinky-drinky." It's true, I had met Coco earlier, and learned that he drank himself out of college, and it seemed to have taken a permanent toll on him, both physically and mentally. [Many people in Myanmar don't drink at all, but the ones who do don't mess around.] All the same, there was something I didn't like about this guy's tone when he spoke of his 'friend'. And that anyone could be so friendly and nonchalant about extorting money from the people he should be responsible for protecting leaves me fuming inside. Outwardly, of course, I'm agreeable and passive - if quiet - while he claps me on the shoulder or tells a joke in broken English.
    In general, the position of the police in a place like Myanmar is strange. In the US, of course, the relationship between the public and the authorities isn't always a bed of roses, but at least in principle, our police force exists as a public service, like the government itself. To Protect and Serve and all that. Not so in Myanmar, a place where I often felt that if there were any police at all, they only existed to protect the government from its people. Just a week later, I would read an article about gangs of taxi drivers in a Yangon neighborhood who had organized to dispense street justice to local criminals by ambushing and beating them. The police weren't part of the equation. Without true popular support, the government only has the manpower to protect and serve itself, while its citizens get through daily life on their own. A symptom of the massive disconnect between politics and reality.
    Confused and disoriented, I start saying goodbyes. I hug my friend's cousin and then try to hug some random old woman in the crowd for some reason. She's having none of it, so I give up. I collect my bag and head down to the clearing in front of the hayloft, where my friend's brother-in-law and uncle are already on their motorcycles; ready to make the dark trek into town instead of eating dinner.
    Living in Myanmar, one of the hardest things for me was the culture of hospitality. Whether people were driving me around, watching me eat the food they cooked, serving as interpreters, or any of the countless little sacrifices they insisted on making; I could never escape feeling like a burden, one of my least favorite things in the world. It took me until I left to get used to it. Out in the country, of course, there is absolutely no choice. Without my friends to ferry me around, feed me, and show me how things work, I would have been completely helpless. 
    So I hopped on the back of the motorcycle, the cops waiting to escort us out of town. With that charmingly earnest nature so characteristic of many people I met there, my friend's cousin runs up and grabs my hand when I wave goodbye and she says, "I will never forget you." My eyes are misty. I won't get to drink wine and eat curry. And I already know how much I hate long motorcycle rides, especially at night. I grip the handle at the back of the seat as we speed out of the village. We won't beat the rain, but at least it waits until we're off the mud roads. When we get into town, we stop at the police station, they examine my passport again, and then we move on without them. We're still very far from the nearest hotel. The road is pitch black and not really wide enough for two cars. We speed through the rain in silence, not slowing down for the wet asphalt. The occasional night bus flashes out of the dark going the other way and taking up the entire road. When it does, my driver shuts off his lights, either balancing on the edge of the pavement, or cutting away into the mud and gravel to avoid the bus. At one point, we pass a man and his motorcycle laying right in the middle of the road. He sits up and watches us. We don't slow down, let alone stop for him.
    Most places are closed when we get into town, but we stop somewhere for a Myanmar beer and a salad. A large porch area of wooden tables and plastic chairs, only a few patrons watching soccer. The mood is somber. Our drivers will find somewhere to stay in town instead of making the long trip back home tonight. Back onto the motorcycles and we finally reach a hotel. But my hopes of a soft bed and a hot shower are dashed. They see my expired visa and turn me away. Ironically, the only solution is to stay at my friend's cousin's house instead [My friend refers to her as her sister-cousin. I've only just learned that this is how they teach it in Burmese high school English classes, which explains why I've been so confused.]. Staying there probably breaks the exact same law those cops were enforcing. As we sit in the concrete front room, I immediately notice all of the mosquitoes that were absent from the village.
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Monday, February 15, 2016

first day in the village

    I'm getting better at flying. The landing gear bouncing off the Indianapolis tarmac jolt me out of a stupor. I don't sleep on flights, but I had managed a drooling trance for the past half hour. I'm home now but my mind is still two weeks ago.
    Early morning came just after the night bus from Yangon, with its overzealous AC and blaring TV into the smallest hours. The only thing that had let me sleep at all was my friend lending me her blanket, without which I probably would have frozen to death. My friend's relatives picked us up from a restaurant by the stop where I'd perked myself up with a bowl of mohinga and an instant coffee while the sun rose.
    Our motorcycle fishtailed its way along through tracks and furrows, trying to stay in the tire-wide path cut by others that zig-zagged back and forth across the road. It had been raining for days before, and the dirt road had become a mud, Motocross deathtrap. I held on to the seat at the rear while my friend's brother-in-law braved the trenches, steering with his feet as much as the wheels to keep us from tipping over. We dipped through pits of rock and puddle. We crossed bridges and took trails through the grass when the road became impassable.
    My hair had grown long in the past year. The sweat and the heat put the frizz in it, so it shot out in all directions in the wind, sloped up and out like a ski jump in the back. As we putted and struggled along, flatbeds passed full of tanned laborers and their flat stares; making me more conscious than usual of the flabby and maggot-pale Westernness of my skin. I was still exhausted from the bus ride, but it was impossible to feel tired on such a bright, dynamic road as this.
    As we ramped over a puddle, he spat out a wad of betel nut, then spoke. "Ryan: uhhh.. you know if you stay at my house, we have three rooms to choose."
    "Okay." I clenched my teeth as we sailed over a wooden bridge, balanced on a few planks placed longways to one side, to give bikes a smooth enough path to keep them from flipping over.
    "Barn is $20. Bottom floor, $30. Top floor, $50!"
    "Excuse me?" I said.
    "Hahahahahaaa!" He laughed while narrowly avoiding a bus fender with his left hand and packing another wad of betel with his right.
    "Oh…ha ha." It would take me most of that first day to catch up with his sense of humor.  
    "You can pay in whiskey!"
    "Oh, all right then." Was he joking, still?
    The landscape in this area of the country is described as tropical savannah. An ironed-out jungle exploding with pale green and a sense of scorch and dust in the air, even after the rains. Tall grass, lone palm trees, lively foliage that seems to be fighting for its life against the heat of the sun. We pulled off the road to a walled building from which a woman with a plastic bottle of gasoline emerged. I stood idle as she filled the tank. Another flatbed passed, this one escorted by motorcycles, the entire cavalcade sporting the flags and red headbands of the National League for Democracy, the country's main opposition party. It was about a month until the election. The government could admittedly only guarantee a 30% accuracy in the results. Census data is no doubt abysmal nationwide. Records haven't been updated in my friend's village when people die. I wonder how many of the deceased will be voting.
    On an easier stretch of the path, a fellow with a pot-belly and violent wave of black hair at the front pulls alongside us, looking jovial. The two drivers shout back and forth a bit, then he speeds off ahead of us. My driver turns his head to me. "He is police officer," he says.
    "Oh."
   
    It turns out I had the upper floor all to myself. No wonder it's so expensive. My own little mosquito net tent, a reed mat on the floor, and a sunlit view of the village out the many unshuttered windows. Massive, noisy flies and bees (horse bees?) commuted through the room, but I didn't see a single mosquito during my whole stay. Which made it heaven compared to Yangon, as far as I was concerned. It's incredible what a lack of stagnant water can accomplish. One fly crawled into the dark of a grate in the ceiling, but immediately reappeared through the same hole, only this time covered in a cocoon of spider silk. It hung there for a moment before being tugged back up into the darkness.
    My time in the tropics has been a crucible for my spider tolerance (which is normally very low). The bathroom is a hotbox across the yard from the house, wood with a tin roof, raised off the ground and only tall enough to squat in. As in most bathrooms, each corner is home to a spider and the various cadavers he keeps on file. I crouched low, kept my elbows in, and tried to reassure myself that the spiders would mind their own business while I did mine.

    Most of our time the first day, and the second for that matter, is taken up visiting family members, which seems to be everyone in the village. They all feed us. Curried meats, lahpet (a snack of dried tea leaves, often with nuts), bamboo shoots, chick peas, sticky rice candy, Shark energy drinks, and enough tea to drown in. My friend introduces me to everyone. "This is my niece. This is my uncle's brother. This is my cousin-sister. This is my father-brother." My head is spinning. I listen to them converse and chime in with my embarrassingly small vocabulary. They're all very nice, many ask questions, but very few seem to look me in the eyes, and greet me in the way that I'm used to on meeting new people. They stay in their chairs, they say what they wish, their mannerisms express a sense that my presence is business as usual. They ask what I think about their village.
    My friend's cousin comes with us from Yangon, to visit the village again before heading off to college in the nearby city. She speaks very little English, but manages to explain to me that she is eager to learn more. She's my second translator on the trip, telling me which way to go with a couple words, or trying out a new sentence on me to see if I can tell what she's talking about. I do the same to her with my few words of Burmese, and we laugh about the horrible results. She's so dainty that I find it funny to see her eating in the typical Burmese fashion, scooping up rice and curry with the fingers of one hand. Her father is one of the motorcyclists that drives us around. He isn't much taller than she is, but looks solid. He has the dark skin of village life, spiky hair, and a facial structure which reminds me of some Western actor that I can't place.  

    In the afternoon, we have to go visit the police, to show them my passport. The one spotted me on the way in (as anyone around here could), and now they want to figure out what to do about me. We go to the village chairman's house, where he and an officer - in uniform this time - lounge around drinking whiskey [Along with Myanmar beer, whiskey seems to be the national drink. And those who do drink it don't mess around.] and smoking the cigars that are stacked on the table. I hand over my passport and sit uncomfortably while he flips through it. As everywhere, there are snacks on the table, packaged candy bars and rice cakes. I nibble on one a bit. My friend speaks with them in friendly, familiar tones. In a place like this, everything must be familiar.
    Except me. Everywhere we went, there was the distinct sense of being a stranger. Adults watched me, children grew silent and stared as I passed, dogs growled at me, even babies cried when I got close. On the porch of my friend's house, her little niece teared up every time she looked at me. By the second day, she had perhaps realized that I wasn't actually a monster; and even called me 'coco', which means big brother. In any case, the frequent passport examinations certainly reinforce the feeling that you are not where you belong in the world. So people want to know why you're there. Why you didn't just stay put. It wasn't an infrequent question from any stranger I met in my travels. Why did you come to Myanmar? Why did you visit our village? What is your business here? Questions I was never good at answering. If I ever let myself, I'd be as likely to preface a response with, "Well now, that's a very philosophical question isn't it? Why _am_ I here?" Furthermore, did these cops so carefully flipping through my documents – making lengthy phone calls on my behalf in the one spot of the village that got cell service – really think I was a spy, or an agitator, or anything but a drifter? Probably not, actually. All they were really looking for was an excuse…
Posted by Ryan at 12:09 PM No comments:
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Sunday, May 31, 2015

my neighborhood




I thought it might be useful to give a better impression of my neighborhood by describing a mundane trip to the mall.

    I pass the turtle's bathtub in the afternoon as I walk through the playground, then around the back of the school, lined with ferns, bamboo, and smells. The brick walkway is crowded with snails and the occasional frog, that I only notice as it hops out of the way. The school cook is laying on a desk behind the kitchen, sleeping. In the new building across the courtyard, the construction workers sleep each night in the rooms they build during the day. Something darts below the grate of the open sewer. Whether cat or rat, I'm not sure. As one of the few places in the neighborhood not overrun with stray dogs, the school is a haven for cats. A one-eyed calico kitten has joined the cloister recently. Out the front gate, the neighbors live in one or two room shacks, more or less. Fences of woven reeds and jumbled sticks mark their spaces, which can be hard to distinguish from one another. Their houses are doorless, made of boards, rusted sheet metal, things like that, and roofed with plastic tarps that hang down over the sides. One hut has the front end of a rusted truck incorporated into the wall, as if it were cut off for that purpose. Out on the little road sits the roof of possibly the same truck. Two girls lean against the wall nearby while their brother kicks a soccerball at them. A toddler tools around the street in what appears to be a powerless Power Wheels hot rod. Plastic bags full of gravel are stacked up to the top of the wall. The largest building beyond the monastery wall I had long thought an abandoned shell, but it now appears to be under construction again.
    It's the rainy season now, which means the temperature has gone down, the humidity has gone up, and our modest sewers are overflowing into the streets. Grey water slides across my sandals.
    Several cabbies lounge on their giant tricycles at the corner, waiting for fares. A small hut is dark inside but for the fire lit on the ground. Two oversized speakers blast dance music out into the street. Stray dogs lounge everywhere, panting in the mud. Late in the afternoon, the air is pale and hazy, probably from fires burning. Last month, during a holiday, the telephone pole was greased and a contest held to see who could climb to the top.
    Beyond a moldy stone wall, the pagoda is visible through the treetops and greenery which encroaches on every manmade structure. Aside from our school, probably the nicest buildings in the area are the monasteries across from the pagoda. Colorful, clean, and recently painted. Monks in crimson robes stand out by the gates and stare up and down the street, or toss water from buckets onto the roadside. A ditch runs along to the right, filled with ferns and trash (a blue umbrella, plastic bags, rotting food, old furniture, burnt paper, and just about anything that someone might throw away). There is trash everywhere, in fact. Next to an ancient, spreading tree on the pagoda grounds, a whole field of it is packed into the dirt like a budding landfill. 
    The traffic gets thicker down the street. Of the cars on the road, about 80% are cabs. Also of the cars on the road, I've been told that almost all of them are less than three years old. There were no imports allowed before that, so any car had probably been running for a few decades or more. The change has likely brought in a lot of business, and also a huge increase in traffic. And honking. Dear lord, the honking...

    Where two streets merge, the traffic thickens, both cars and people. A fenced off old hospital is to the right. The monasteries give way to old apartment buildings. Actually, they probably aren't that old, but the mold that grows on everything makes them look it. By sundown, the right side of the street is crowded with market stalls and blankets covered in merchandise. Jewelry, fried foods, childrens' clothing sporting the Union Jack.
    At the first cross-street, one of the tricycle taxi drivers squeezes his left nostril with a finger and blows snot into the gutter. The pedestrians run the gamut of styles and tax brackets. To some degree, I feel the latter can be determined by the smoothness of their skin. Most people wear longyi, though the younger ones are that much more likely to be wearing Western clothes. The shops begin. A vitamin counter (they seem to be everywhere), Mr. Boy's hair salon, internet cafés tucked in under mottled drywall and balconies draped with laundry. A counter of flowers in the street and a man chanting through a megaphone while rattling his bucket of change. Instead of a sign with their name on it, every restaurant seems to sport the same billboard, the green and red logo for Myanmar beer.
    At the next corner, I pass another school, a large courtyard behind a stone fence, the sidewalk lined with covered pickup trucks to take the students home. A young man with frosted, spiky hair and skinny jeans kicks a passing dog in the rib cage between struts. Beyond the school is a woman whose entire store is made of bananas, in all sorts of colors. Next to it, the yard of a small house is crowded with debris, as if part of the roof had been blown off in a storm.
    The mall dwarfs its surroundings, a mass of neon lights and air conditioning which must use more power than the rest of the neighborhood combined. The doors stand open on the metal detector and uniformed security guards who never check my satchel for some reason. Other than that, the whole building feels like it's been cut out of a neighborhood in Seoul and airlifted here.




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